Winterizing the Recreational Vehicle

My years of living in the frosty north taught me many things, but none as important as this: when Jack Frost comes knocking at your door you better be prepared.

Years ago I own a deeded RV lot and camper in the campground section of Coosawattee River Resort.  I loved my little piece of heaven, but every December brought the same routine - winterization.  Now, we all love north Georgia for its relatively temperate climate, but as we are seeing this week the cold can hit hard and you have to be prepared.

Now, I love watching real estate trends and noticed this summer that a lot of campground lots in CRR were sold.  With more sales come more campers and more possibilities of frozen pipes this winter.  I thought I would take a few minutes to share some quick tips for winterizing your recreational vehicle if you choose to leave it on your lot this winter.  If you are an experienced RV'er you probably don't need to read any further.  However, if you are a camper virgin like I was, these tips may help make life a lot easier.  It is always best to refer to your owners manual if you have one and follow the recommended procedures of the manufacturer.  You will most likely find yourself in the same shoes I was with no directions!

First, if you own an RV with a fresh water holding tank and a 'dry camp' pump to operate the water system from the fresh tank you have two options.  If you don't have an internal pump you can get one that operates on a 12 volt battery and attach it to the inlet hose on your camper.  You will need to pump directly from the RV Antifreeze bottles.

Option one:  Drain the system and pump with antifreeze:

1. Turn the water off to the camper.
2. Now, you can simply drain any water from your fresh water tank through the drain nozzle under your RV, remove the plug on the hot water tank (accessed from outside) and let it drain completely and reinstall the plug.  Remember to let your hot water heater cool off completely before draining or you will certainly burn yourself.
3. Next, fill your freshwater tank with approximately 12 gallons of RV Antifreeze.  This seams like a lot, but remember you have to fill the hot water heater and that can take around 10 gallons alone.
4. Now, go inside the unit and open the hot knob on your sink faucet (don't worry about the cold knob or the other sinks, shower, toilet yet.)
5. Turn your water pump on and let it cycle.  As soon as you begin flowing pink from the hot side of the faucet shut it off and move to the hot side of the shower.  Once that is complete go back outside and access the outside shower head (if there is one) and repeat the process.  The hot side of your system is now winterized.  It's now time to do the same process with the cold side of each faucet and toilet (don't forget the washer wand).  Once completed you can feel confident that your plumbing won't crack.
6. Don't forget to unhook the hose from the water inlet outside and drain.  If the temps get into the 20's it will surely freeze.

Option two:  Not draining the water system and pump with antifreeze

 

1. Let me start by saying that this is not the optimal way to do it, but will work in the event that the plug in your RV's hot water tank will not come out.  This is a common issue with RV's and you never want to force the plug.  RV Antifreeze is a lot cheaper than a new hot water heater!
2. You will now have to repeat the steps above.  Keep in mind that you will probably not get the same shade of pink out of the hot side of the faucets as you do the cold.  The main reason for this is that you are mixing the RV Antifreeze with the existing water in the hot water heater tank.  However, once you get a solid flow of pink you should be OK.
3. Now, repeat the process for the cold side. 
4. Remember, you may have to buy a couple extra gallons of antifreeze depending on the size of your hot water tank and your internal water system.

The other option you have requires a small air compressor and a small air gun with a trigger.  You will need a compressor large enough with an air tank that will push about 30 PSI.  The PSI needs to be set on the regulator attached to the tank.

 

1. Turn the water off to the camper and let your air compressor pump up.
2. Open all of the faucets to 'On' in the unit.
3. Using electrical tape you can wrap the end of the air gun to make it seal tightly against the end of the water inlet hose.
4. Next, gently add air to the system and continue to add air until all of the faucets, toilet and toilet washer wand are blowing clean.  You will probably hear a 'gurgling' sound from the hot water tank.  That is because you will not get all of the water out of the tank with compressed air.  You will need to drain the tank.
5. Remove the drain plug and drain your hot water heater as described above making sure that water inside has cooled to room temperature.  If the plug in your hot water tank will not come out you will be best served  to use options 1 or 2 above.

Don't forget to add a shot of RV Antifreeze down each of your drains.  Your system should now be free of water and ready to endure the cold winter months. 

I know folks that use other methods to winterize their units, but these are the two I have found that work best for me.  If you have any other tips or tricks to make this yearly process easier please share them in the comment section below.